(or Much More Than You Ever Wanted To Know About Tribbles)
by Myranya

Tribbles (Tribbeleus Pregnantum) are furry, almost round animals, ranging in size from less than 3 to more than 35 cm. They have no legs, but are nonetheless able to propel themselves at a very reasonable speed. They can and will eat almost anything a carbon-based life form can digest, and then some. They do not posses eyes, but have other, highly accurate, senses, some of which have not been fully explained as of this date.

The natural tribble is some shade of black, brown, or white, but through selective breeding the tribble now comes in almost any color.

Tribbles are hermaphrodites and begin reproduction before birth, if the parent has enough food reserves built up. They are also capable of heterosexual reproduction, which is important for variety and evolution in the species. As a matter of fact, a tribble will choose a partner if one is available.

A tribble can reproduce once every 12 hours, with an average litter of 10, when fed free choice on a high protein diet, but the tribbles kept commonly as pets are genetically altered and can not breed.

Non-breeding tribbles make good pets because they are clean and easy to keep. They are very friendly to almost all humanioids, and most other Federation members.

The tribble was first introduced into the Federation by Cyrano Jones, s.d. 4523.3, at Deep Space Station K-7. Its origin, however, remained unknown until s.d. 8104.6.

The home world of the tribble is Cardegy II, a hostile planet that is mainly desert with little food and several predatory life forms. The tribble adapted well to the harsh circumstances; they need little food for sustenance, and whenever food is available, as will happen after one of the rare rain storms, it reproduces at an incredable rate. Only the hardiest specimen are able to live until the next rain period. Natural selection has made the tribble a tough little creature that has few needs and is unsuseptible to disease and injury.

As tough as the tribble is, and notwithstanding its reproductive ability, recent studies have revealed that the tribble has been threatened with extinction on its home planet more than once.

In recent years, the colonies on Cardegy II have usurped some of the desert areas, and climate control has rendered several wide spread areas more hospitable, but there are still large areas of desert where wild tribbles roam freely.

Close to the colonized areas, the tribbles sometimes present a problem, since the presence of the colonists keeps many predators away. There is plenty to eat because of the climat control and the refuge of the colonists. The tribbles can form a real plague, and several plans are being executed to limit their number.

Food and refuge is being sprayed with neo-ethylene, preventing them from breeding. (See also chapter 5 on the use of neo-ethylene in tribbles)

The Klingons have been able to genetically construct the glommer, a tribble predator that looks most like a ball on rather high legs. It eats tribbles whole, and works great against the rapidly multiplying wild tribbles. The Cardegy colony took over most of the breeding stock s.d. 42506.6.

In addition, Klingons are encouraged to move to the Cardegy colony. A tribble that can move around freely will not come near a Klingon, thus staying out of any of their recidences.

Non-Klingon colonists are not always happy with this last method, claiming they get more tribbles because of their Klingon neighbors, but truth is that less tribbles range in neighborhoods with Klingons than in other areas, even if food and shelter circumstances would otherwise be more favorable to the tribbles.

The tribble has a thick, muscular skin, which is used to move not unlike a small, living tank. A tribble can also start itself rolling, and can even climb reasonably well by pulling itself up with folds of its skin.

Directly underneath the skin is a sensory layer, with which the tribble feels, hears, smells, and detects wves much like sonar.

The mouth opening, located at the underside of the tribble, can expand greatly to take in large food particles. It ends in a ‘multi-functional tube’, which extends through the whole tribble and serves as an esophagus, trachea, and birth canal.

The stomach is a large digestive sack, in which almost anything can be completely digested and absorbed. In cast a tribble swallows something that can not be digested, it can be excreted through the multi-functional tube.

The liver, gall bladder, and the two digestive glands which are unique to the tribble and play a large role in its enormeous digestive capabilities, empty right into the stomach.

Circulation takes place by the pumping of a blood-like substance through ducts to the walls of the various organs. In the organ walls it flows freely, and the oxygen is released in an exchange involving a substance found only in tribbles, called Trey’s fluid, after the Earth biologist who discovered it. Only in the lungs is there a similarity with the alveoli found in most higher oxygen breathing life forms. Its hart, though muscular, is small, as are all organs apart from stomach and uterus, taking a little of the available space as possible.

Half the tribble is uterus. Because of its relatively large size, the uterus is divided in smaller cavities. This facilitates transport of oxygen and nutrients to the embryos.

Ripened eggs and sperm are released immediatly into the uterus. In case of heterosexual fertilization, eggs and sperm of both tribbles are mixed in the process. Thus, some eggs will be fertilized by the other tribble’s sperm, and some by its own. Still, a larger percentage of offspring will usually be the result of the crossing.

A tribble has no skeleton as we know it, but the skin is so thick and tough that it acts as an exoskeleton.

Tribbles are hermophrodites -both male and female in one individual. This means that, unlike an amoeba, which splits itself, producing an exact clone, fertilization does take place, and a limited gene pool is available. Still, tribbles will inter-breed whenever possible.

The most important factor in selection and breeding of wild tribbles is reproductive capability, but in the tribble used as pet the size, color, and hair coat are valued higher.

The natural colors of the tribble range from black, brown, gray and white to almost yellow, in solid, spotted, and roan. However, through selective breeding and the more controversial genetic engineering, breeders have come up with tribbles of more exotic colors: green, blue, yellow, red and even leopard.

True white is dominant, then black, and roughly down to lighter and lighter with cream and light yellow being the most recessive natural colors in tribbles. Spotted is dominant over solid, roan is co-dominant, and leopard is recessive to all.

Many colors will be co-dominant to some extend, so a black crossed with a natural red will produce some offspring with a more liver-color, or deep brown-red, rather than just pure black offspring.

Genes are identified for true white, black, brown, grey, red and cream, these are often called ‘true’ colors; liver, mouse-grey, dark red (bay) and infinite other shades are various combinations of ‘true’ colors, working together to produce that certain shade.

Natural colors tend to be dominant even over darker exotic colors. The exception is albino, which is naturally occurring, but is recessive to all other colors. The reason for this is that albino is not a real color, but rather an absence of color. Thus, as soon as any color does come into the picture, the tribble will not be an albino but instead show that color.

Albino tribbles are rare but can hardly be discerned from true white tribbles. An albino will throw no color when self-fertilization has taken place, while a true white will throw a variety of colors. With non-breeding tribbles there is no way to tell unless the parent is known.

It is of course possible to ascertain the exact genotype of any tribble in a well-equiped laboratory, but unless there is a special reason for it, like the breeding of a new color, the time and cost involved are not worth it.

The tribbles sold as pets are all genetically altered and do not breed. The exact process is too complicated to elaborate on at this time, but for those interested I would recommend “Genetics and Reproduction in Tribbles”, by Drs. Prahyr & Taylor, Rigel IV, s.d. 25013.

A tribble is a miniature when it is less than 5 cm when fully grown. Tribbles don’t necessarily stop growing when mature; an underfed tribble can grow larger when fed adequately, even though it often won’t reach its full potential.

Because in showing and selling miniatures the smallest specimen are the most desirable, some breeders will deliberately underfeed their tribbles. However, an experienced tribble-keeper can easily diagnose underfeeding by the loose skin, dull hair color, and in severe cases, lethargic behavior of the tribble. When deliberate underfeeding has been discovered it will lead to expulsion of all the offender’s animals from the show and a warning from the UFPTSBA. Repeat offenders can be expelled from all shows and have their breeder’s licence revoked. First-time buyers are recommended to take an expert along when purchasing a miniature.

Because miniatures are relatively rare, all but the largest shows will not split classes in color or hair lenght. All coats and colors occur in miniature tribbles.

This is the tribble most people keep. They are between 5 and 25 cm. Because there are so many tribbles in this category they are divided into subgroups.

A) Longhair tribbles. A tribble is called a longhair if it has fur of 2 1/2 cm or longer. The hair should stand up fluffy and not be tangled or matted. Spotted and leopard tribbles with long hair are extremely rare.

B) Roughhair tribbles. A roughhair tribble has hair of up to about 2 1/2 cm long. Most have many swirls in their coat. When groomed, the hair looks fluffy, when left alone it curls lightly in all directions. This is the natural hair coat of the tribble.

C) Shorthair tribbles. Shorthair tribbles have a short, smooth hair coat which should lay down in one direction. They are the easiest tribble to groom and keep clean. Most spotted and leopard tribbles are shorthaired.

A giant tribble is over 25 cm. All colors and coats occur in giant tribbles, but due to the rarity of giant tribbles most shows will have one class, as with the miniatures.

The giant tribbles should not be confused with the tribble colonies, which look like giant tribbles but are clusters of little tribbles.

READ  warp09_99

A tribble colony is an incorrectly sterilized tribble which does not grow by itself, but instead multiplies and forms a colony with its offspring, appearing to be one giant specimen. The largest tribble colony observed till date was approximately 1m40 across, with a weight of over 230 kilograms.

A tribble colony will break down into its individual units when given a shot of neo-ethylene. The resulting individual specimen will be safe, non-breeding tribbles.

Neo-ethylene can also be used to suppress the ability to breed in a tribble that has not been genetically altered, but as it wears off in time, it is not a reliable method for house-hold use. Breeders do not use it, as the first litter after a neo-ethylene treatment is usually small in number and the young tribbles are also less likely to be show material. It is used, however, to controll tribbles in the wild.

Some breeders have tried cross-breeding tribbles with various other life forms, attempting primarily to come up with something that has the shape, size and disposition of a tribble, but breeds like the other life form.

This effort has met with some resistance, not in the least from those who fear they might end up with something the shape, size and disposition of the other life form, that breeds like a tribble!

So far, none of the attempts have been successful, since a tribble will not breed with any other life form voluntarily, and its self-fertilizing mechanism is powerful enough to override any attempt at forced cross-fertilization, leaving absolutely no room for experiments.

Genetically altered tribbles make great pets. They are soft, gentle and relatively easy to care for. They are great for kids, but adults will also benefit from the calming influence a tribble appears to have on most humanoid life forms. (Excepting, of course, Klingons.)

In their natural environment tribbles hardly live to the age of 3-5 years due to the many hazards, however, the life span of a domesticated tribble can extend to 20-30 years.

A tribble is curious and always looking for food. They are excellent escape artists, and should be kept in a securily locked cage. Tribles won’t run off when well cared for, but they will wreak havok in the kitchen, and the kitchen of the neighbors, as well, when allowed to roam free. They like warm places like chairs, so risk being sat on when loose.

The cage should be kept clean and dry. A tribble uses grain and grain products with almost a 100% efficiency, so the cage rarely needs cleaning. However, if the tribble is fed other things, like table scraps and food with a high fat content, it will excrete waste products, and the cage will need to be cleaned more often.

A tribble can digest anything a carbon-based life form can, and then some. They have an enormeous appetite, being mostly a fur-covered digestive and reproductive system. To keep a tribble healthy, however, it should be fed on a low-energy grain, with raw vegetables as source for vitamines and for variety.

There are several good grain mixtures on the market, specially formulated for either breeding, non-breeding, and show tribbles. Supplements can be given to show tribbles to get the most out of their hair coat, or to give underfed tribbles a quick boost, but they are not necessary for a healthy, non-showing tribble.

A tribble fed on a high-energy, high-protein diet will become fat, sullen, and its coat will look dull. Therefore, non-breeding tribbles should not be fed the high yield feeds designed for breeding tribbles, nor should tribbles be fed too many table scraps and sweets.

A tribble does not need to drink when fed on mostly proteins and sugars, but especially when fed on fatty food, or anything high in salts, will need some water for the waste excretion process. Be sure a small container of fresh water is available in case the tribble wants it, but do not worry if the tribble does not appear to use any of it -a tribble will know when it needs the water and when it does not.

A tribble likes attention. It loves to be petted, or to just sit on your desk. It likes most humanoids, but despises Klingons, since it is highly allergic to the pheremones a Klingon gives off when active or angry.

Tribbles are easy to handle and will purr when content. Even though their mouth opening is strong, a tribble has never been known to bite. It is possible a tribble might bite a Klingon, but there is no record of one holding a tribble long enough to find out.

Kids love tribbles because they are small, soft, and gentle. Younger kids must be taught to put the tribble back in its cage, so the parents won’t find it in the food replicator.

If a tribble accidently gets pinched or otherwise is handled roughly, it will emit a high shriek, usually loud enough to make anyone let go.

A tribble likes to be brushed and its coat should be kept untangled, but because tribble hair grows slow, they should be brushed gently and not too often.

Tribbles do not like water and should not normally be bathed. When thrown in water they will float, and can even propel themselves somewhat, but they will avoid all that is wet whenever possible. If it becomes necessary to wash a tribble, a sonic shower is preferable. If one is not available, the tribble should be dried with a soft, dry towel, or be blow-dried.

Tribbles can be taught simple tricks by gently coaxing it in the desired direction and rewarding it with a small treat of high yield grain or a sweet.

They quickly learn to come when called, or to squeak at some things and purr at others. A tribble will also rapidly learn its way through a maze, or recogize certain sounds and smells.

Tribbles are not susceptible to many diseases, since they had to be extremely hardy to merely survive in their original habitat. However, there are a few diseases and other problems that the tribble owner should be aware of.

You can tell a tribble is sick by its behavior. It will be very slow, sullen, and even lethargic.

Physical signs are a dull coat, loose skin, and a general ‘sloppy’ look.

If your tribble ever goes off its feed, call a vet immediately.

Longhaired tribbles are more likely to have a skin or coat problem that shorthaired specimen, simply because there is more hair for the vermin to hide in.

If your tribble is loosing its hair, and its skin is slightly flaky, dandruff might be the cause. Dandruff is easily cured by washing the tribble in lukewarm water with a gentle anti dandruff shampoo. Always use lukewarm water, and dry the tribble immediately. Because the signs of dandruff are much like the first signs of summer itch, inexperienced tribble keepers should consult a vet.

Summer itch looks much like dandruff at the onset, but the flaking will soon become much more profound, and is usually located in a few area’s only. Washing the tribble will not help, but the vet can give a lotion to be rubbed on the flaky spots once a day until the flaking stops.

A tribble is not preferred by lice or fleas, but if other animals in the household are infested, the tribble will probably pick some up as well. Anti-flea products for cats are safe for use on tribbles, but dog products should not be used. Always treat all animals in the household at the same time, and treat their cages, sleeping places, and favorite hide-outs as well.

Regular ticks can not penetrate the muscular layer underneath the skin, but the Bahner ticks in the Zehnar sector, and particularly those on Deneb III, can. Remove with alcohol and tweezers as you would any tick from any life form.

A tribble that is groomed too often will get bald spots, since tribble hair grows very slowly. Gentle grooming, with a large-toothed comb will work preventive in coat problems, but, as with everything, too much is never right.

Never leave foreign objects entangled in your tribbles hair (like a burr or a Symenn-his-hair-tangled). They can be removed using coat conditioner or regular baby oil to slicken the hair and prevent it from being pulled out.


Tribbles can get a cold if they get wet and are not dried properly. They will not easily drown, but they hate water. They can be dried with a soft, dry towel, a blow dryer, or in a sonic shower. Tribbles are more susceptible to colds because their native planet is so dry and warm that a wet tribble in a draft has little natural defenses against it.

A cold is diagnosed by the tribble showing the general symptoms of disease, as well as a sniffing sound, which the tribble produces when foreign particles are excreted through the multi-functional canal.

You might also notice a coughing noise, which is produced when large amounts of air are being blown out of the multi-functional tube, and it closes with a pop. This is common when the tribble inhales dust or other foreign particles, and in and of itself not something to worry about, but if it persists for any length of time it could be a sign of a cold or even pneunomia.

A tribble with a cold should be kept warm, and given adequate food -which means a breeding tribble with a cold is often better sterilized unless particularly valuable. The tribble should be taken away from the other tribbles and kept in isolation until all signs of illness are gone.

If a cold is allowed to escalate, a tribble might catch pneunomia. Pneunomia in a tribble should always be treated by a veterinarian. The tribble must be isolated and given anti-biotics.

Tribbles can be allergic to some substances, but will usually know how to avoid them. This is why a tribble will avoid a Klingon at all cost; the tribble is allergic to the specific pheremones a Klingon excretes when he is either scared, highly active, or angry. As Klingons don’t like tribbles, they get angry when one is near, and will excrete plenty of such pheremones.


There are few things that are poisenous to a tribble, and the tribble will know how to avoid most of them. Those substances that have no smell or taste of course are difficult to avoid, so the tribble should not have access to them. If poisoning is suspected, take the substance, residue, or container with you and take the tribble to the nearest vet office immediately.

READ  episode4x03a

All normal food substances carbon-based life forms can digest are safe for tribbles, but they can be slightly uncomfortable after eating large quantities of food high in fat. Take the fatty food away from the tribble and make sure it has some water to help in the process of excreting waste.

Over-eating is common in non-breeding tribbles. If it is only an incident, the tribble might appear somewhat uncomfortable, but no harm will come of it. A tribble that gets fed too much on a regular basis will get fat, become sluggish, and its coat will loose its luster.

Loss of appetite is unusual and very serious. If a tribble ever refuses to eat, do not try to doctor on it yourself, but call a vet immediately. The cause could be poison, or it might be a symptom of another, serious disease, like pneunomia.


There are not many diseases of the reproductive system in tribbles. One of the few things you might find in domestic tribbles is inflamation of the uterus. Inflamation of the uterus is most often caused by inducing abortion in a pregnant tribble. This can be done, but must always be followed up by a cure of antibiotica. When diagnoosed in an early stage, inflamation of the uterus can be cured by a longer cure of antibiotica, but when further advanced the inner walls will all be affected and the tribble willhave to be put down.

Spontaneous abortions are almost unheard of in tribbles, and if it ever occurs, it is a sure sign of a serious problem. Call a veterinarian immediately.

All major tribble organizations within the Federation hold shows, where owners of tribbles compete for ribbons, awards, and even money.

Any healthy tribble is eligible for entrance in the shows, but the owner must be a member of one of the tribble organizations, and an NTBC (Non-Breeding Tribble Certificate) is required.

Breeding tribbles have their own shows, which is usually an excellent place to find a good, healthy tribble. Breeders will usually have several ‘safe’ tribbles with them as well, for showing requirements and for sale. At larger shows, there might even be an auction of breeding and non-breeding tribbles.

Most shows are divided in the following classes:

-Miniatures, all colors, all coats.

-regular tribbles, short haired.

-regular tribbles, rough haired.

-regular tribbles, long haired.

-giant tribbles, all colors, all coats.

-natural colored tribbles.

-exotic colored tribbles.

-grand and reserve champion, choosen from the first and second places in each class.

A tribble can be entered in more than one class if the judging schedule permits. For example, a shorthair, blue regular can be entered in the regular, short haired, class as well as in the exotic colored class.

Tribbles are judged on general health, condition, size according to breed and age, brightness of color, and texture and condition of hair coat. Breeding tribbles are also judged on health, number, color and size of offspring. (Breeders should bring a recent litter along with the parent to compete in any class)

Any tribble association can provide information on local shows, dates, and specific requirements, if any.

-It is against Federation law to keep a breeding tribble without a valid breeders’ licence and a current membership in one of the tribble associations.

-Tribbles may not be sold, traded, or otherwise change owner without a Non-Breeding Tribble Certificate (NBTC). The NBTC should be complete, including some hair as a DNA sample. Breeding tribbles may only be sold to and by individuals with a valid breeder’s licence and a current membership in one of the tribble associations.

-A non-breeding tribble, accompanied by an NTBC, may be transported within the Federation. However, some planets have their own local laws pertaining tribbles, and not all Captains allow tribbles aboard their vessels, so it is necessary to make inquiries before taking a tribble on a move or vacation.

-A breeding tribble is considered a potentially harmful life form, and the owner carries certain responsibilities as to the safety and prevention of escape. Licenced individuals are allowed to travel with a breeding tribble, but many ships and planets have their own laws and rules here, as well.

-Any breeding tribble must be kept in an enclosed environment conformed to a set of standards as to safety and prevention of escape.

-Tribbles are not susceptible to manydiseases, but as any life form, they are possible carriers of such. Some planets require health certificates, tests, and/or quarantaine, as do some ship’s Captains. Here again, it is a good idea to check before taking your tribble along.

-It is forbidden for a Klingon to own a live tribble. The Humane Society has ruled it would be extremely stressful for the tribble. As it would also be rather stressful for the Klingon, many feel this regulation superfluous.

-And of course under no circumstances should a live tribble be taken into the Klingon empire.

To be able to breed tribbles within the Federation, it is required to have a license and be a member of the United Federation Tribble Show and Breeder’s Association, or one of the connected organizations.

To obtain a tribble breeder’s license, it is required to pass a test. The test consists of two parts, a written test and a practical exam.

-Tribble breeds and colors.

-Housing and care.

-Diseases and treatment.

-History of the tribble.

-Laws and rules pertaining to tribbles, including local laws.

-Theories of genetic engineering.

-Genetics and cross-breeding.

-Adjustment of feeding ratios for maintenance and breeding.

The practical exam includes the following:

-Tribble feeding.

-Tribble grooming and care.

-Genetic alteration.

-Recognition of breeds and colors.

Keep in mind that the number of tribble breeders is kept very limited due to the enormeous fertility of the tribble.

The average breeding farm has about 50-75 breeding tribbles, most of which are kept on a carefully balanced ratio that maintains the tribble without discomfort but leaves not room for reproduction.

When a litter is desired, the breeder selects the tribbles he wants to breed and places them in a breeding cage.

An exact measurement of food is given, as the breeder usually will want to get a litter only from the selected tribbles, and not an immediate litter from the youngsters, as well. This is done by making sure the parent tribbles get exactly enough food for one litter, and one litter only. This way, there will not be enough nutrients for the youngsters to be born pregnant, as is the case in tribbles when the parent animals have been fed free choice.

When fed too much, the youngsters will be pregnant, even if the litters will be small if the over-feeding was little. When fed too little, the two planned litters will be small, yielding smaller offspring which is seldom show quality.

After 10-12 hours, the tribbles are fed on a normal ratio again, also to assure no more than one litter is obtained.

After 12-14 hours the litter can be expected. The average litter is about 10 youngsters. The youngsters are immediately rendered safe by genetically altering, or selected for further breeding and put on a growth – but not breeding – ratio.

It takes much practice to balance the feed ratios in such a manner as to not starve the tribbles, or interfere with their growth, while staying low enough as to prevent reproduction. The margins might be as small as 2 mg. per tribble per day in miniatures.

Less experienced tribble breeders, afraid to over-feed their tribbles, often underfeed their breeding stock, but his leads to smaller tribbles with dull hair and shabby coats.

Once the youngsters which have not been selected for further breeding have been genetically altered, they are seperated from the breeding stock and are fed more freely on a special growth mixture of grain. They are registered and given an NTBC.

With its high reproduction rate, tribbles have great potential for various other purposes than just pets.

The tribble has been used in various cultures as a food and fur source, but with the wide-spread use of the replicator most Federation cultures have almost entirely done away with the usage of live animals for either. Also, the large number of breeding tribbles that would be kept on a fur or meat farm would create an emormeous environmental hazard.

Tribbles have been used as test animals, when poisoning was suspected. However, modern equipment can do the same task much better, for there are many substances which are poisonous to humanoids, but harmless to tribbles.

Before the alliance between the Federation and the Klingon empire, tribbles were frequently used to sniff out spies. It was not unusual for Customs at a large starbase to have a tribble in addition to the sophisticated scanning systems. It is not unlikely that worlds outside the Federation, which have no treaty with the Klingons, do still use tribbles for this purpose.

Tribbles could, of course, be used as a weapon, when released in large numbers in an agricultural area. This is one of the reasons why the selection of breeders is so precise, and why it is so hard to get a permit for transport of a breeding tribble. So far, the tribble has never been used in this manner.

This is a listing of some of the larger organizations within the Federation, and some that were especially helpful in creating this publication. It would not be possible to print a list of all tribble organizations in this book, but if no organization in your sector is listed, the UFPTSBA can direct you to organizations in your area. They also have limited information on tribble organizations outside the Federation.

United Federation of Planets Tribble Show and Breeder’s Association Code 679340-CKBF-346 Sherman’s Planet

Bajoran Tribble Association Code 836124-TVLK-816 Bajor

Betazed Tribble Breeders Code 689082-TTOS-149 Betazed

Earth Tribble Breeder’s Association Code 001434-DKQX-960 Sol III

Tribble Breeders of Rigel Code 743148-AXHP-1744 Rigel IV

Tribble Breeders Sector 18 Code 118332-XBDL-0893 Starbase 495

Vulcan Tribble Breeders Code 020186-CARE-7351 Vulcan

Beshar, Tonio. “Care and Feeding of the Pet Tribble”, Magna III, 36405.1

Captain’s log, USS Enterprise, Capt. James T. Kirk recording, USS Enterprise, 4523.2/8.4

Cashy, Wanda. “The Tribble in Art and Literature”, Shehyvan, 32654.0

Eliah, Darvo. “Teaching Tricks to Small Pets”, Taurus I, 39821.6

Gerrold, David. “The trouble with Tribbles”, Sol III, 7305.4

Gerrold, David. “More Tribbles, More Troubles”, Sol III, 7306.10

Heinstein, Theodore Hans von. “Breeding Color in Tribbles”, Sparrjae IV, 25438.7

Prahyr, Dr. K. and Taylor, Dr. V. R. “Genetics and Reproduction in Tribbles”, Rigel IV, 25013.6

Roelof, Dr. Wayne. “Diseases in Federation Pets”, Sol III, 40004.7

Tasis, Vynja. “Showing Your Tribble”, leaflet, Starbase 66, 41031.8

Return to Fan Fiction  Return to the Databank

Related Articles

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *